3D Model Renderings

Here are some renderings of models that I'm especially proud of!

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How Much Filament Do I Have Left

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As I approached the end of another roll of filament, I asked myself, "how much filament do I have left?"  I was getting ready to leave for work and didn't want the printer sitting idle all day with a half-finished print sitting on the bed, but I also didn't want to just put on a new roll and waste a bunch of perfectly good filament.  What to do?  Well, the answer was obvious, hit Google! Unfortunately, no answer was readily available.  Filament spools do not have standard sizes, so there's no rule-of-thumb like, "the last layer has 10 meters of filament" or the like.  Annoyed at my lack of results, I thought more about the problem and eventually reframed it for myself.  What I had here wasn't a 3D printing problem, one that might require the epic expertise of a Joel , an Angus , or a Thomas ... what I had here was a simple applied math problem.  I got out my calipers and went to work. My filament spool has those helpful little cutouts on the sid
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Prusa MK3 Stringing at .05 mm Layer Height Resolved!

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I've had a Prusa MK3 for several weeks and have printed nearly a kilogram of upgrades for my boardgames.  Most of that has been terrain features, which have printed beautifully at 0.1 mm layer height (check out the things I've made for some examples).  Sure, the print lines are visible (especially after applying a wash), but I'm still very happy with the results.  I haven't been so happy with attempts at printing miniatures at 0.05 mm layer height. I was vexed to find that 0.05 mm layer height prints on my brand new printer looked like garbage.  They were so covered with strings that I couldn't even remove the support material.  Admittedly, they'd be pretty awesome if I exclusively played campaigns in the Mirkwood, but that's really not what I'm going for. I tried all sorts of things to resolve the situation, and some certainly helped.  I lowered my nozzle temperature from 210 to 200 degrees.  I adjusted my printing speeds so that they'd max
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Using PrusaSlicer to Design Tree Supports for FDM Prints

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I've done a lot of work with tree supports in Meshmixer .  I don't want to denigrate the awesome utility that Meshmixer brings to the table, but it also hasn't been updated in two years.  Meanwhile, Prusa forked their version of Slic3r into PrusaSlicer and has added a bunch of support for MSLA printing... including tree supports!  And, they obviously paid a lot of attention to how tree supports are designed in tools like Meshmixer, because the PrusaSlicer interface neatly bypasses just about all of the pain points that I have when working with MM!  The one drawback is that the Tree Supports are only officially available for MSLA printers... but there's an easy way around that! In order to use PrusaSlicer to generate support trees, you need to change to one of their supported MSLA printers.  At that point, when you slice your model, it will automatically generate support trees that are tuned for that MSLA printer.  These automatically placed trees are a really good st
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